INSIDE THE CRAFT OF HIGH JEWELLERY FROM JAIPUR
KUNDAN
Kundan means the purest form of gold in Hindi. In this craft, precious gemstones and Polki are embedded into a jewellery frame and secured with hand-cut gold foil.
The technique that flourished in Rajasthan's royalcourts has been practiced over generations. While Kundan illuminates the front of the jewel, the reverse is often finished with Meenakari.
Kundan means the purest form of gold
in Hindi. In this craft, precious gemstones
and Polki are embedded into a jewellery
frame and secured with hand-cut gold foil.
MEENAKARI
The Persian word meena refers to heaven or paradise, while kari means to work on an object.
Meenakari or “placing paradise on an object” evokes the radiant, jewel-like colours that are created through enamelling and applied by hand to the back of Kundan jewellery. An intimate artistic expression on the reverse that is meant solely for the eyes of the wearer.
Meenakari means “to place paradise on an object” in Persian. An intimate artistic expression where jewel-toned enamel is hand-applied to the back of Kundan jewellery.
Meenakari means “to place paradise
on an object” in Persian. An intimate artistic
expression where jewel-toned enamel is
hand-applied to the back of Kundan jewellery.
SEE HOW IT’S MADE
A six-step process involving specialists at every stage
A six-step process involving
specialists at every stage
Chiteri or Drawing
The designer visualises the idea through a sketch, defining the proportions, colours and placement of every element.
Meenakari
Using a fine brush, layers of enamel are applied to create the radiant colours characteristic of Meenakari. Each colour is applied layer by layer, with heat used to set the enamel in place.
Khudai or Engraving
Next, the surface is worked by hand. Intricate lines and patterns are etched into the gold, bringing detail and definition to the form.
Piroyi or Beading
Finally, the individual elements are brought together. Beads and pearls are added, the clasp is placed and the shapes are carefully strung by hand, bringing the original drawing to life.
Ghadai or Mounting
The sketch then takes shape in gold. Gold sheets are hand-beaten and assembled to create the basic structure of the jewellery.
Jadayi or Embedding
After the reverse is enriched with colour, attention turns to the front. Gemstones, diamonds and Polki are carefully set into the gold with hand-cut gold foil, creating the richly set surface of Kundan.
Chiteri or Drawing
The designer visualises the idea through a sketch, defining the proportions, colours and placement of every element.
Ghadai or Mounting
The sketch then takes shape in gold. Gold sheets are hand-beaten and assembled to create the basic structure of the jewellery.
Khudai or Engraving
Next, the surface is worked by hand. Intricate lines and patterns are etched into the gold, bringing detail and definition to the form.
Meenakari
Using a fine brush, layers of enamel are applied to create the radiant colours characteristic of Meenakari. Each colour is applied layer by layer, with heat used to set the enamel in place.
Jadayi or Embedding
After the reverse is enriched with colour, attention turns to the front. Gemstones, diamonds and Polki are carefully set into the gold with hand-cut gold foil, creating the richly set surface of Kundan.
Piroyi or Beading
Finally, the individual elements are brought together. Beads and pearls are added, the clasp is placed and the shapes are carefully strung by hand, bringing the original drawing to life.
THE FINER THINGS
Using a fine brush, layers of enamel are applied to create the radiant colours characteristic of Meenakari. Each colour is applied layer by layer, with heat used to set the enamel in place.
An eye for
the finest stones
Rooted in
traditional knowledge
Rooted in traditional
knowledge
An exceptional
standard of finishing
An exceptional
standard of finishing
CARE GUIDE
Keep Away From Cosmetics
Keep Jewellery in a Dry Place
